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With the war over and materials available again, the Paris couturiers, who had been sidelined during the occupation of France, once again took the fashion helm. Christian Dior pioneered the New Look, which featured a nipped waist, longer lengths and fuller skirts, with yards and yards of fabric used and a more classically feminine image created. The New Look was built on Dior's desire to let the curves of the feminine body be molded by the clothes, with the style a secondary aspect.
Characteristics of the New Look included:
Women who had come to love the simplicity of the wartime styles protested, but this time, Paris won.
While Dior was leading the way with his new New Look, other designers in the 40s were likewise pioneering new styles and materials. These included:
The symbol of working women during the war, the Rosie look is personified first and foremost by slacks, which was something very few women wore up till that point. Film star Marlene Dietrich wore trousers in the 1930s and it was considered shocking. Reproductions of women's fashions in the 1940s focus mostly on the dresses, but for most women, their daily wardrobe consisted of loose, comfortable trousers or overalls and sturdy boots. Hair was carefully tied up in a colorful scarf. A "Rosie" might still wear lipstick and keep her eyebrows well-manicured, but she was an important part of the war effort, and style was not part of the equation.
For a young, unmarried woman, time off work was time for fun, even with few men around. Evening dresses were still long, but not nearly as elaborate as in former decades, even for the wealthiest members of society. Formal gowns were rarely worn at the height of the war. Even the Oscars shunned formal attire, with attendees wearing cocktail dresses and even suits instead.
When women went dancing, the preference again was for the knee-length rayon dresses worn during the day. These dresses were best for swing and jitterbug dancing, exuberant dances popular because they allowed everyone to let off steam in an uncertain time. The stocking shortage meant that women wore leg makeup, and some did indeed paint lines down their legs to look like seams, as is often shown in films. Women compensated for the simple dresses and lack of stockings with Bakelite jewelry and fake flowers in their hair, adding color and verve to a dark time.
While many pieces either didn't survive or fell out of fashion, it is still possible to find both vintage 1940s women's clothing and 1940s reproductions online, including at:
Although the classic 1940s look is the wartime style, from the curls and hats down to the ankle-strap shoes, the postwar look held sway through the 1950s. Women's fashion would not regain that much comfort and practicality until the clothing revolution of the 1960s. However, what the women of the 1940s had forged was not forgotten. Trousers never went completely out of fashion again. Women, having had a taste of the working life, fought hard to stay in the workplace.
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